Xi'an

Today we are traveling.  Stopped by the Olympic Stadium where the 2008 Olympics were held, for some pictures.  At the jade museum we had learned that the Olympic medals were made with different jades.  THe gold metal had yellow, the silver had emerald (which turns out to be the best jade) and the bronze had another, but I forget what it was called.  So it turns out the in the 2008 Olympics it was better (metal wise) to come in 2nd…if only Michael Phelps knew that he might not have tried as hard to get 8 gold metals.  

Now we are on a plane to Xi'an. 

The Chinese say that there are three best happinesses in life which are:

1.  To get married

2.  To pass the Imperial Test (which does not occur anymore) and

3.  To see a friend in a strange place (i.e. if I was in Rio and randomly saw Anthony there as well).

I like #3 the best.  I think it is true, that it is a great surprise when you are somewhere that is not normal and you see a good friend.  It is as if you were destined to see that person and say hello.  Really seeing good friends is always one of my happinesses and I can't wait to get back to Denver to see everyone. 

In order to get married in China a man must have three things - an apartment, a car and the ability to pay for the ceremony (which doesn't come cheap considering the bride typically wears three outfits throughout the day - a red dress for the tea ceremony, a white western dress for the ceremony and a reception party dress).  The groom must then give a present - consisting of money - to the brides family.  This has now led tot he culture of parents wanting to have a girl (as opposed to a boy).  Chen, our National Tour Guide, is now preparing himself to get married.  He has purchased an apartment and is getting a "steady" job moving back to his home town to teach.  Now all he has to do is get a car (and find a girl to marry).    

The first night we were in Xi'an we went to a traditional theater performance which would have been performed for the Emperor.  There was also a dumpling dinner.  Both were really good (although typically the dumplings are filled with pork, I was able to get some veggie ones).  My favorite dance was called "The Dance of 1,000 Hands."  There were about 20 people standing in line and the arms were doing all the work, like a traditional tutting dance.  Although there weren't much movement, the shapes and visuals that they made were impressive.  Its too bad I couldn't get a good picture.

The next day we went to the oldest Buddhist temple in China.  Buddhism was brought over from India and the scripts were translated into Chinese in the temple over 3,000 years ago (at the Wild Goose Temple - which is where we were).  It is called the Wild Goose Temple because the monk was looking for a place to translate the scripts when a goose fell from the sky dead at his feet.  At that sign he decided that was the place to build the temple.  Now if you are on the tour they will show you the temple and tell you that is where the translation was done, but after using some common sense and reading a bit of history you will know that the temple standing today was not the original…and that it has been rebuilt throughout history.  I mean really a temple is going to last 3,000 years and still look that good?  

But the temple is occupied by monks who have to abide by over 100 rules to be a monk (including not getting married or mingling with the opposite sex).  The monks keep birds as pets which stay in cages hung in the trees.  There are stone cylinders which hold the cremated monks who have passed away.  Also included is the Happy Buda.  Must rub his belly for good luck (his head for intelligence and ear for longevity).  I went with just his belly.

Next up was the Terra-cotta Warriors.  The farmer who found them was just digging a well on his farm.  He figured that this was something big - told the govt. and was relocated off of his farm.  The govt. turned into a World Heritage Site and huge tourist site…with nothing to be heard of the farmer or his family.  Then in 1998ish, President Bill Clinton came to China and to Xi'an and wanted to meet the farmer.  The govt. quickly found him and sent someone to teach him a few english phrases including:

 - Hi

 - How are you?

- I am fine and you?

- Yes

So on the day the farmer met Bill he was nervous and mispronounced a word in the dialog and this is how the encounter went:

Bill:  Hi

Farmer:  Hi, who are you? (oops s/b Hi, how are you?)

Bill:  I'm the husband of Hillary do you know her?

Farmer:  Fine, yes yes and you?

Bill:  Laughs….

Overall a good encounter for the farmer, for after meeting Bill the govt build his family a mansion and gave him lots of money.  They then taught him how to write his name (it took them two years) and in 2000 gave him a volunteering job at the museum where everyday he signs the Terra-cotta Warrior book for all the visitors.  There are no pictures allowed (he has a piece of cardboard waiting incase you even try and sneak one in).  On the other hand you can pay him 20 Yuan and get a full face shot.  

In the museum there are three pits.  The fist one is the one everyone talks about and it is impressive.  About 8,000 warriors - but not all dug up yet.  Since looters trashed the place before they were buried, it takes quite a long time to put the back together.  The second pit is like the Special Forces pit.  This one wasn't looted before it was buried so the statues are more intact.  Not as many there to see but the archeologists love it.  Pit 3 is much smaller, with some horses and warriors.  This is where the carrot was held.  The Chariot is much smaller than the warriors, but it is the vessel that would take the Emperors "good body" up to heaven and since that would only be a portion of the body there was no need to have it human size.  

After the Warriors we headed to the City Wall.  THis is what protected the inner city from the invaders.  It was really cool to be up there and you could tell a distinction between the old city and the new city.  Nowadays businesses are typically within the wall and people live outside the wall.  Although we did not take this option, you could rent a tandem bike on the wall and cycle around.  

We went back to the hotel after dinner and our local guide, Mary had arranged a traditional Chinese massage in our rooms.  Its not at all like any massage I have had before.  You get changed into your pajamas which is comforting.  But it was one of the most painful things I have ever been through (doesn't help that I was pretty sore from climbing the wall the day before).  There were times that I thought I was going to cry and she kept telling me to relax.  I was really trying my hardest to relax and the next day I came out with a few bruises - but my body felt so good, I wasn't sore and my muscles felt like they were in the right place.  I would definitely recommend it to anyone who visits China - but a good idea to have someone you trust arrange it for you.

Afterwards Nathan and Anja came over for some drinks.  Nathan got us each 4 - 600ml beers - which turned out to be cheaper than buying water (which you have to do because you are not supposed to drink the water in China).  We drank and didn't stop until they were done.  It was a great night (not that I remember much) but Nathan said that everyone has a book inside of them, so that is now my question when meeting new people - what book they would write if they could.  I know that mine would be a history traveling book, researching and following people's lives through cemeteries. Yeah, I know sound exciting.  But one of these days when I have enough time and money I would really love to do it…

On our last day in Xi'an we went to the Muslim district.  This is the oldest district in Xi'an.  We walked up and down the street and there were lots of food vendors selling, corned beef, dried fruit and roasted walnuts.  It looked awesome, but I knew there was no way I was going to risk trying anything that had been sitting out on the street.  

While we were there we stopped into the older original housing and caught a puppet show.  Really fun to watch - although I had no clue what was going on.  THe puppets ware made out of Ox Skin and are painted very colorful.  There were two people in the whole production - a man on the drums and symbols who did a few voices and a woman as the puppeteer and more voices.  The show was about the Monkey King and his adventures.  Again, still had no idea what was going on.  At one of the airports I found a book called "The Adventures of the Monkey King," so I figured I should get it and see if I could relate it to the play.  Really no luck, but maybe if I saw the show again it would make more sense.

We then flew to Guilin…it was a late flight, but I was able to get a vegetarian meal (which is good).  We got  in super late so I just had some snacks for dinner (really Oreos with peanut butter on them).  Since we had to get up so early, I decided to treat myself and order room service for breakfast - one of my best ideas on the tour really.  Plus the hotel didn't charge me to bring it up to my room…bonus.