THERE'S a deathly stench in the wind that blows down the main street of Broken Hill, though nobody is sure if it's the insects or the vermin. It's probably both.
Attracted to light, the crickets have stormed the town from the desert, wreaking havoc on the local businesses, particularly those that deal in food. There are tales of insects baked into pizzas and languishing in the bottom of milkshakes. Some speak of having to vacuum their beds before going to sleep at nights. One business owner has been sealing his doors overnight with duct tape, but says they still get in somehow. He found hundreds of them one morning in his charity lollie box.
In the pubs, where crickets are swatted away with gestures that once saluted the flies, patrons are well advised to drink fast, lest a schooner left sitting on the bar for too long becomes a crunchy protein shake.
For some, the biggest worry is that the snakes will learn about the mice, and come slithering into town from the desert scrub, where spiders are already growing fat on the crickets and breeding fast, the town of Broken Hill becoming besieged by an army of venomous monsters.
So it’s early, so early that while boarding our plane the sun wasn't even out (and I'm not sure I would call it a plane). There were only 30 seats and some propellers to get us off the ground - and I'm not even sure I want to go anymore.


But we were off....and 45 minutes later we were supposed to have arrived at Broken Hill. At one point we started to descend and then all of a sudden we were back up and circling around. Then the pilot came on the intercom to let us know that we had enough fuel to attempt one more landing but due to the weather they were having difficulties. If a landing was not possible we would have to turn around and head back to Adelaide. I was heartbroken. I had three good friends with me and we were all going to Broken Hill (and one was from Broken Hill so we had a great place to stay and lots of tour guides). Then it was back down again, the plane was shaky but I held my breath and prayed - and we finally landed. I was so happy and ready for the weekend.
Emma's dad picked us up at the airport to take us home. Since he is a dentist in town, we stopped by the office and picked up toothbrushes and toothpaste for everyone (it was a really nice welcoming gift). Then off to the house to throw down our bags and get a bit of food. Once we got settled we jumped in the car for our first tour. Emma (our tour guide) gave us the tour of downtown. We saw the stoplight and all the major hot spots...
The stoplights

News Agent

The Demo (this is where everyone goes on a Friday night)

The radio station (shaped as an old radio)

After the downtown tour, we went back to the house to get ready for the races. The St. Paddy Day races, the entire reason we were there for the weekend. Some horses, drinks, and head pieces. We got all dolled up and headed to the track. Upon arriving at the track it came to our attention that it was quite muddy, not good when you are wearing heals - and apparently not good for horse racing (as there were no horses there). Yes that is right, due to the mud there would be no horse races for the day. So, what else do you do at the horse races...drink? (no that is not entirely true; there is also Fashions in the Field).


Fashions in the Field - a fashion competition for the crowd to enjoy. There are many different categories which one may enter (depending on ones age). I really wanted Helen and Emma to enter as this would be one of my only opportunities to see Fashions in the Field, so we headed over to the judging area. This whole competition thing started to look very serious, and I got nervous that we needed to register Helen and Emma. So I head over to the judging table and ask the nice man with the microphone. He informs me that there is no registration necessary and you just have to walk on up during your age category. Well, good that means we didn't miss anything.
Then he asks me where I'm from (which doesn't alarm me as I get it all the time) and I tell him Colorado. We chat a bit - I recognize him as one of the morning talk show hosts in Adelaide (which I subsequently find out was recently fired). Then it starts - he is the MC for the event and every other sentence we hear that people have come from all over the world to participate in Fashions in the Field...all the way from Colorado...that he is so excited for the upcoming categories where people all the way from Colorado will be participating...
Well there wasn't much I could do but participate in Fashions in the Field. Luckily there were about 90 ladies in our age category so there wasn't much pressure - and needless to say I didn't make it to the finals (neither did Helen or Emma - which I thought was a horrible call).

After that there wasn't much else to do but have some more champagne and make the rounds. We saw many interesting people including some cowboys - but still no horses.


By the end of the day, I think a few people (guys in particular) drank a bit too much, because all of a sudden some guys in their knickers are on the race course ready to run (okay there were a few ladies there but all were fully clothed). Oh man, I was embarrassed for them - but secretly excited that we were finally getting to see a race. I have no idea who won, but that is my ever lasting memory of the Broken Hill St Paddy's Day Races.


After the races, it was back home for a quick change and a few more sites to see...

Then it was dinner and off to the after party. Turns out it was in a new night club in town. I can't say exactly what it looked like (it was quite dark) but there was a dance floor and a DJ. We danced the night away and had a great time.
The next morning we were lucky to have a lie in - then a good breakfast before we were off for the all inclusive Broken Hill tour. The first stop on the tour was the film studio. This was cool - a great place for a raging party - huge cement building. Broken Hill and the surrounding areas are used as a backdrop for many different movies - including the classic Mad Max (and Mad Max 2, and Mad Max 3, I even hear there is going to be a Mad Max 4). So as weird as it sounds that there is a film studio in one of the more remote towns in Australia, it does make sense.

Next stop was Bell's Milk Bar - a classic to the Broken Hill residents. We all got milk shakes flavored with their handmade 1950's recipe syrups. They were delicious (although later I regretted getting a large and not using the restroom before I left). Then it was back in the car and off to Silverton (this is where most of the Mad Max outdoor scenes were filmed). We stopped by the cemetery, a mud hut, the Mad Max museum, a lookout point to Flinders Ranges, and the reservoir (this is when I really started to regret the large milk shake). Luckily it was back into town to the local pub.


I think everyone was in the local pub to celebrate the day after the day everyone celebrated St Paddy's Day. I must say a few of the party-goers looked as if they hadn't stopped drinking since Friday night (note today is Sunday) - but they were all having a great time, drinking beer and dancing to ACDC. I even spotted a few "True" Aussies which really made my day.


The last stop on the all comprehensive tour were the sculptures. Per the sculpture website, "The Sculpture Symposium, is a nationally successful sculpture symposium situated on a majestic hilltop within the centre of the reserve. The Symposium was completed in 1993 by artists from around the world, under the direction of organiser and artist Lawrence Beck. 12 Sandstone Sculptures highlight the skyline, all with a story to tell."
I must say, I didn't really get the story they were telling, but the sculptures were really nice.


Now back to the house, grab our bags and head to the airport. We made it safely back to Adelaide and were ready for another week. A great trip to Broken Hill and I didn't see one mouse or have any major encounters with live crickets.































